Quick Stats:
30 days: mid-Sep to mid-Oct
4678 miles (7528 km)
Two countries: USA and Canada
Two Provinces: British Columbia and Alberta
8 States: CA, OR, WA, MT, WY, ID, UT, NV
8 National Parks
and only 1 Airbnb and 3 hotels/motels
After a wonderful weekend spent in San Francisco with local friends, and with visitors from the Netherlands, we embarked on the northern leg of our "Retirement Road Trip" to celebrate Sal's major life milestone.
Follow our detailed itinerary below...
Day 1: South Beach Marina, San Francisco to Annie Creek Sno-Park (see Campgrounds, below), Fort Klamath, Oregon - 417 miles
Highlights of this driving day included the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway and the Butte Valley National Grasslands where we saw a couple of golden eagles, climbed an abandoned look-out tower and took some backroads through to Dorris, CA just before crossing into Oregon on Hwy 97.
We also want to note that we found a fantastic boondock site just 20 miles south of Crater Lake, Annie Creek Sno-Park! Don’t let the name throw you, during the summer/autumn season, this is a popular option (from April 1-Nov 1, otherwise it’s a snow park). There are two maintained pit toilets and a basic snow shelter with electricity where you can plug-in if necessary. Many sites, don’t be afraid to drive over the bridge for more private options.
Day 2-3 : Fort Klamath to Portland, Oregon
263 miles
We drove into Crater Lake National Park at sun up, made the obligatory stop for our Passport Stamp and headed straight to our first hike of the trip, Garfield Peak Trail . The cozy lodge is worth a look-see. We only visited for one day, having been here before and needing to get on the road. But, we fully enjoyed an invigorating hike, and then had a nice rest afterwards at the cozy lodge. We were happy to start this popular trail early in the morning. The views are stunning and the incline is nice and steady with some weather changes around the bends. We were happy for our poles on this one. There are many hiking options in the park, please know. We hear the fishing is good as well. It is allowed and encouraged, no license required. The lake is stocked with Rainbow Trout and Kokanee Salmon. Yum.
On our way to Portland, we drove on the Rogue Umpqua Scenic Byway and made a quick stop at Toketee Falls (worth a stop if you have time). The short .8 mile hike is well worth it, as is the interesting "feature" of an immense wooden pipe that has sprung several leaks and showers much of the parking area) . This was our 1st “falls” of the trip. Many, many more to come!
We parked in our friends' driveway in Portland, where we stayed for 2 nights. During our time there we visited two delicious restaurants, lounged at a couple of Portlandia coffee shops, and stopped for ice cream of course (at Salt & Straw).
Our friends are working hard to open their new business, a flower farm. Find them @ladygraceflowerfarm on Instagram for the exciting details. These people know how to do things right, so it will be definitely worth a visit come summertime 2025!
Day 4: Portland to Kirkland, WA
182 miles
We had a short drive this day, because we wanted to visit a dear friend in Kirkland, for dinner. We took our time and stopped at the lovely Ike Kinswa State Park for a nice 2 mile walk and birthday celebration for Bill, complete with presents and cake!
Day 5: Kirkland-North Vancouver, British Columbia Canada
227 miles
A spectacular drive on White Pass Scenic Byway along with a beautiful hike at Larabee State Park on a portion of the Two Dollar Trail Loop. From there we drove to the Bellingham Ferry Terminal Building in Fairhaven to do some research for our 2025 Alaska trip. This building is worth a stop for anyone! There are eateries and a museum plus schedules and ferries! Fairhaven is quite pretty, chock-a-block with shops and restaurants.
From there we crossed the border into Canada; our first border crossing in our Comfy White Van! We crossed in Douglas (north of Seattle). Very quick and easy, only a few cars ahead. Passport is required, nothing else. They asked a few questions, mainly making sure we (as senior citizens) weren’t planning on moving north. “Of course not”, we answered together, while secretly thinking, “it’s not entirely out of the question”.
That evening we settled down in our Airbnb in North Vancouver for the next three nights and headed to The Shipyards (really cool, check out the link, we can’t describe it) to dine at Joey’s (surprisingly tasty with a view of Vancouver across the water) with our dear friends: Antoine, Julianna and their soon-to-be two year old son, Luc. It was a memorable evening in many ways.
Our friends are young professionals who relocated to Vancouver several years ago, from Sao Paolo, Brazil. We have known Antoine for basically his entire life because his parents were our next door neighbors in San Jose until they relocated to Brazil. And now, here he is all grown up with his beautiful family and taking on the task of showing his “old” friends around Vancouver. They knew where to go and what to see and took us under their wings for the next two days. He is in the animation industry and she is a catalog designer for a popular furniture manufacturer. We were in the right hands.
Day 6-Walking Tour of Vancouver
We started the day with coffee and pastry at Please Beverage (unique and delicious coffee by morning, tasting room by night). We clocked 7 miles walking plus 2 water ferries. Granville Island, West End, Olympic Village and all around Vancouver. The ramen at Maruhachi was so good it’s worth a trip to Vancouver alone! True, we were starving after our walk, but the broth. Seriously.
And of course the day would not be complete without ice cream at Ernests. Big yum.
Day 7-Squamish, BC
Our ride picked us up early for a field trip to Squamish. This is THE new up and coming place to be in British Columbia if a) you are young and fit b) if you love rock climbing, cycling and/or hiking; preferably all three and c) you love nature and stunning surroundings. Our young and fit friends are having a new place being built for them at this very moment, where they will relocate sometime in 2025.
First stop was Isetta Cafe, the must-stop breakfast place for well-dressed (and fit) cyclists. It’s a beautiful spot “nestled between the mountains and the shore”, with delicious food (we got the Morning After Sando, we give it a 10). We took a quick walk to explore the shore and the neighborhood. The next time you are driving to Squamish, you must give it a try.
The Sea to the Sky Highway to Squamish is a breathtaking drive in any weather. Ours was a bit damp with low hanging mist and clouds which only added to the drama. The views of the sea and islands are unparalleled. Some folks travel this route to take the gondola which is “quite the party”, according to our young friends. We might do it on our next visit to them!
We hiked Quercus Lookout Trail in Murrin Provincial Park If you ever do this hike make sure and bring your poles. It is short and steep and hard (for this writer) but worth every huff and puff. Stunning views. We also visited the “tumbling waters” of Shannon Falls, our 2nd waterfalls of the trip and the 3rd highest in British Columbia. At this point we are starting to feel like we fit in, especially after dining at The Watershed Grill. You can’t call yourself a local before you’ve had the Baked Brie and Salmon Burger while gazing over the Squamish River looking for wildlife. Handcrafted donuts at the community bakery Fox and Oak and a swing at the playground across the street ended our”local” day in Squamish. Another huge thank you to our tour guides Antoine, Julianna, Luc, Joyce and Gavin. You made us feel young again!
[click on photo below to view the slide show]
Day 8-North Vancouver to Kelowna 395k 245mi 10k steps
We leave the security and comfort of our superb tour guides to strike out on our own today. First order if business, of course, is a hike located right in our own neighborhood of North Vancouver. Lynn Canyon Hike, We like to joke we “got our steps in”. MANY, many stairs on this beautiful hike in the forest. We didn’t fret after learning that the suspension bridge was closed (which happens to be the main attraction) for maintenance. Once you descend into the hushed green and yellow canopy, all of your woes are gone. You can only marvel in the beauty and silence (and OK, worry a little bit about all the damn stairs).
We decided to stayed at Bear Creek Provincial Campground, across the Okanagan Lake from Kelowna. It’s 100% acceptable as a campground to spend the night on a road trip. It was full and this should have been our first clue that just because it’s “off-season” doesn’t mean we are the only ones with the great idea of traveling now.
Day 9-Kelowna to Revelstoke (Rev) 194k 121mi
Our night in "Revi" was spent at the Lamplighter Campground. You know, for a campground located within walking distance of the town, we would recommend staying here. The sites are small and it’s a busy place with travelers just like us, passing through for just a night, but clean bathrooms and a laundry room made us happy. In hindsight (and with more time) we would stay in the area longer and choose a campground in one of the nearby parks. Revelstoke is beautiful and probably worth a trip of it’s own. On the recommendation of our Squamish friend, Gavin, we dined at The Village Idiot which was lively and fun and a perfect choice for Hugo’s Homage Poutine.
The walk from the campground to the town takes you over the”local’s” bridge which is quite lovely and we highly recommend taking that stroll at the very least. (photo of bridge here)
Day 10 Revi to Yoho National Park Canada (through Glacier NP in Canada) 216k -134 miles
We made it to the Canadian Rockies and we couldn’t have been more excited! We stopped at several of the roadside pullovers for hikes and history.
When driving to Banff from Vancouver ( or vice versa) on Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), you will bisect Glacier NP Canada and have the opportunity to explore a bit, by taking one of the many pull-outs along the way. Each one offers at least a short hike, always beautiful and usually to a falls. We took only two of the pull outs and wish we would have had the wherewithal to take more. We might need to go back.
The Visitor’s Center at Roger’s Pass is 643km from (or to) Vancouver. It’s breathtaking and historical. We took the time to walk along the abandoned railroad tracks and to read about the daunting feat of building the railroad.
We also pulled over and did the short but stunning walk to Meeting of the Waters at the Illecillewaet (nope, not a typo) Valley Trailhead. There we found out first Red Chairs. it’s a short flat tail with options to continue. We found it very pleasant and do recommend.
That evening we “ boondocked” at Takakkaw Falls, near the Alberta border, after a long day of exploring and trying to find a place to camp.
When driving to Banff from Vancouver ( or visa versa) on Trans-Canada HIghway (Highway 1), you will dissect this park and have the opportunity to explore a bit, by taking one of the many pull-outs along the way. Each one offers at least a short hike, always beautiful and usually to a falls. We took only two of the pull outs and wish we would have had the wherewithal to take more. We might need to go back.
The Visitor’s Center at Roger’s Pass is 643km from (or to) Vancouver. it’s breathtaking and historical. We took the time to walk along the abandoned railroad tracks and to read about the daunting feat of building the railroad.
We also pulled over and did the short but stunning walk to Meeting of the Waters at the Illecillewaet (nope, not a typo) Valley Trailhead. There we found out first Red Chairs. it’s a short flat tail with options to continue. We found it very pleasant and do recommend.
We’d never heard of the place but decided what the hay, let’s give it a gander. We ended up staying overnight in the parking lot at Takakkaw Falls, because our intended campground (Kicking Horse) was full! What the hay? It’s September, people. We did not expect this. So, we drove up a mountain at dusk, found a walk-in campground but parked in the lot behind a dumpster and within noise distance of the falls. Takakkaw (which means magnificent in Cree) Falls are the 2nd largest in Canada making this little side-trip totally worth the while. Lesson learned: don’t make reservations, drive up the hill and stealth camp away from it all.
Comments